Sunday, August 9, 2009

Surfing...

Dear Mom, I am sorry to tell you this, BUT I did something you would not approve of. With that being said, I will continue my story but you must consider the fact that I am 100 percent still alive and well and had a wonderful day!

SO...
I met this guy the other day. His name is Tom and hes a sweet Aussie boy from a little town called Wangaratta. He currently lives in Melbourne and we both share the passion for surfing. Consequently, he offered to take me surfing with him and his friends on Sunday (today) and I accepted (SORRY MUMS!). Yes, I just met him... but you only live once and he seemed innocent enough...



Tom is the one on the left.


He arrived to pick me up at 7 AM (UGGGHHHH) with a 5'10 thruster for me to ride. Lets just get things straight... I have never surfed a board that thin or that short, but what the heck, it was free and I am looking to start shortboarding anyways...

We swung by his friends' house to pick up his buddies Lockey (short for Lockland) and Lucas (also known as Bucksy). Very quickly we realized that the four of us were not going to fit into the car of Tom (who I realized, from about 2 minutes of boy conversation, had been nicknamed Dinnsa, for his last name Dinning). Not to worry, they had a solution... That was to take their friends rickety old hatchback; you couldn't lock the doors because the only way to start the car was with a rusty old screw driver, ha! At this point I knew I was in for an adventure.

We piled the boards and ourselves into the car and began the drive to Tourquay, where I had surfed previously with my friends from the village. When I went last weekend, I had to take a taxi to the train station, a train to the bus station and a bus to the surf shop and walk to the beach... I have to confess, today was much easier AND much cheaper. We drove about an hour and a half from Melbourne--Tom drove, Bucksy sat in the front and Lockey and I sat in the back... It was a fun ride down--getting to know everyone!

After the drive, we checked the waves, suited up and paddled out! The conditions were pretty bad actually, but I did end up catching one good one on the tiny board. It probably wasn't too graceful, but I had a very good time... It was really good to get out in the ocean and it was SUNNY today for a change! After all the paddling AND getting caught inside on a set I was so tired... After about an hour and a half surf, we headed in and got some "FUSH AND CHUPS" (ha ha) in Tourquay and then took a drive to another surf spot called 13th Street...


Bucksy, Lockey and Tom reading the paper while waiting for food...

13th Street looked fun so the boys decided they were going to go for another surf... Hit hard by a food coma, I decided to stay in the car and take a nap... Which I did, for about an hour. Then, they boys came in...

We drove to a gas station to pick up some "lollies" (candy in Australian) which consisted of Crunchie Bars, Skittles, Party Mix Gummies and some other stuff... On the way home, Lockey and I proceeded to separate all the "good" skittle flavors from the bad ones... We sorted the red and purple ones and put them in a separate bag... In the other bag, the green, yellow and orange ones. Which ones were the good ones? It speaks for itself... C'mon people.

Tom and I dropped off Lockey and Bucksy and the ghetto surf wagon... I came in and met the rest of the housemates for a bit, then Tom dropped me off at the village. Ah, what a successful fun day! And, I barley spent any money... We decided we would all go surfing again very soon and I think Tom and I are going to meet up sometime this week for Grill'd (SHOUT OUT TO BROGIE! The best burger place in Melbourne...) That is all my good friends... LOVE YOU ALL!

(Sorry Mom...)

1 comment:

  1. I LOVE GRILL'D OH EM GEE I LOVE YOU MIR! get the zen hen for me...ugh so good.

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